Day trip - Kandy to Colombo and English High Tea

My Mother and I caught the inter-city train to Colombo from Peradeniya Junction early Wednesday morning at about 6.30am. It was the day of the latest partial solar eclipse. It was our first time riding in the observation car. We bought our tickets a few days in advance so we sat right at the rear end of the train facing the rear window. When we got on the train there was a lady sitting there, apparently her seat was the one behind us so she changed seats. I had expected there to be foreign tourists in the observation carriage but everyone was local. Most of them were sleeping, I guess they were used to riding in the observation car. We had a panoramic view from where we sat but the carriage was also a little warm from the sun against which we had to draw the curtains from time to time.

We arrived at Colombo Fort railway station at about 9.05am. Then we used the toilets after paying Rs 5, but the toilets were not clean. Since we were in a hurry we had to make do. After that we caught a bus to Kollupitiya and then another bus to UNDP office where we had to get a form signed. Coming out of the office we saw Shanti Vihar and decided to have lunch there although it was early. My Mother decided to order rice for both of us. Bad choice, I had wanted to order paratha or dosa, maybe next time! After that we walked a long way, then finally took a 3 wheeler to Liberty Plaza. We wondered around inside, there were the usual crowd including locals and foreign tourists. We bought a few articles of Sri Lanka made clothing which seemed reasonably priced. After leaving Liberty Plaza we went to a clothing shop close to Galle road and bought an Indian handloom sari for my Mother in a subdued earth color that she now prefers to wear.

By then it was time for my Mother's appointment at the US Embassy to collect her new US passport. Two weeks previously my Mother had submitted her application for a new passport. At that time I had to hang around sweating, waiting for her across the street in the blistering heat. This time my Mother had discovered that US nationals were allowed inside the Embassy. So I showed them my US passport and was allowed to accompany my Mother inside. Once there, she was promptly given her new passport and we were on our way.

We had one more stop to make before returning to Kandy. I had always wanted to try an English High Tea in Sri Lanka. I had heard that the Hilton High Teas were legendary. I called them up and I came to the conclusion that they were too pricey and I would be getting music and a vast assortment of food that went far beyond the authentic English High Tea experience that I was looking for. I had done some previous homework on a few other places serving High Tea and decided upon the Mt. Lavinia Hotel.

So we walked back to Kollupitiya Junction and caught a bus to Mount Lavinia. We told the bus conductor that we wanted to go to the Mt. Lavinia Hotel and aked him to tell us when we reached our stop. As we approached our stop, a lady sitting behind us was helpful enough to tell us that we should get off at the next stop and take a 3 wheeler from the main road. So we did as she had instructed us.

We arrived at the Mt. Lavinia Hotel around 3pm as they served their Bicentennial High Tea from 3.30pm until 6pm. It was served at the Terrace Restaurant of the Hotel which is located next to the Pool.

Each of us was presented with a three tiered serving tray filled with one each of the following items: scone with jam and clotted cream, finger sandwiches (cucumber, fish, cheese, asparagus) , chocolate eclair, curried fish tart, fruit tart, chocolate covered strawberry, chocolate cake and fruitcake. Of course, a pot of tea with cream and sugar was included. The price per head including taxes came out to Rs. 800. I was very happy with the tea and accompaniments which were pretty authentic. The location was ideal to enjoy a relaxing afternoon tea.We had a beautiful view of the ocean and we could see how the Colombo skyline curved down from Colombo Harbour all the way to Mt. Lavinia. Great location for people watching too, people were eating or just relaxing in the wood framed rattan chairs of the Terrace and others swimming or lazing about the pool. There was a mix of locals and tourists on the Terrace and in the pool and everyone seemed to be having fun. The charge for using the pool (according to the staff who served us) was Rs. 600 for the whole day and included towels, a beach chair and umbrella.

We spent about two hours enjoying our tea at the Terrace. Then it was time to return, so we caught a 3 wheeler back to the main road again and a bus back to Pettah which took us almost one hour. We immediately caught an intercity bus heading to Kandy which departed at about 6pm. Since we boarded the bus as it was about to leave we had to sit on the jump seats in the isle of the bus. The seats were fine except when we people at the back had to get off and we had to stand up and fold our seats back to let them get past. Fortunately, this didn't happen more than four times.We had encountered a lot of traffic and it took us an hour just to reach Kadawatha. After that the traffic lessened and the total journey from Pettah to Peradeniya (Kandy) turned out to be almost 3.5 hours.